Is that an anachronism? Or an oxymoron? Whatever, progress today on the Medieval Venetian gown! I have the blue wool cut out on the dolmatic pattern I found from extant sources online and it looks pretty awesome. here are some pictures cataloguing my process. Most of this work was about careful measuring, and remembering how to calculate a slope! I’ll be writing for a non-sewing audience here, so step by step, here we go!
First the fabric had gotten very… covered… so a lint roller was needed. I rolled every last inch to get the fabric clean.
Then, selvedge to selvedge, the cloth is folded “hot dog style” so I only have to draw half the pattern. If I open the fabric up after, it will be mirrored on both sides, like a paper snowflake.
My fabric was in the remnants bin and marked “as is” for a good reason. This is one of them: the end of run fabric code on one end and the fabric is frayed above it…
And here’s the other, a badly/hastily cut other end.
I know that my fabric is just long enough to reach where I want on both sides of me if I fold the length in half, so I want to maximize the length of my cut. So I have to find the lowest usable point on each end and mark it with a ruler…
…to cut a nice straight line with enough room to hem the ends. When I’m done, this marking won’t be seen
Now to fold the fabric in half again. The dolmatic is a flat pattern, same on back as front, so the paper snowflake gets another fold. Makes my life easier… for now! But the middle line has to be secured and the fabric folded precisely!
This is a favorite top with a similar scoop neckline that I will copy and adjust for this gown. I will keep it low so the underdress can be seen below.
Drawing the back and front necklines…
Pinning the necklines and the underarm line prior to cutting…
This is where knowing that slope is rise over run is useful. How to get a straight line on the fabric over 45 inches when you’re on a table less than that wide…and dont have a yard stick… math to the rescue! In this case, my 45 inch rise by 7 inch run equates to moving over an inch for every 6.42 inches down. I rounded to 6.5 and did pretty well.
The pinned product on the dress form. The background is the landing on our second floor that I work on, where the ski machine and the x-box both reside in harmony.
This is how the sleeve is pinned up. The sleeve is only sewn down about halfway ( just above the elbow) and the remainder is left open to pin back up, folded up on itself. This will be lined in the paisley fabric and beaded with pearls to show off a bit of bling.
Here’s the pinning for the sleeve.
And how the sleeve drapes on it’s own when pinned.
And me in it in a mirror! I’m wearing a tank on underneath One sleeve is pinned, one is not. It actually looks fairly Regency, don’t it?